This book, 3D Printing Designs: Design an SD Card Holder, published in April 2016 by Packt Publishing and authored by Joe Larson, serves as a comprehensive guide for designing 3D-printed objects, particularly focusing on practical real-world applications. It introduces fundamental 3D printing concepts, explains how Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers operate, and details crucial design considerations for successful prints, such as managing overhangs, bridging, and appropriate wall thickness. A significant portion of the text is dedicated to mastering Blender, a 3D modeling software, covering everything from its interface and navigation to object creation, transformations, and exporting models. Furthermore, the book emphasizes the importance of accurate measurements for design precision, offering techniques like using calipers and grid paper tracing, and culminates in a hands-on project to design an SD card holder ring, illustrating how to integrate real-world dimensions into digital models.
Designing for FFF 3D Printing Success
3D printing is a manufacturing technology that allows for the creation of physical objects from virtual designs. It is often discussed in the news and media, generating considerable excitement. While it may seem limitless in what it can create, it does have specific rules and limitations that must be followed for successful prints. The process involves building solid shapes layer by layer from materials, starting with an empty build area and progressively filling it. This method is known as additive manufacturing, which produces comparatively less waste than traditional techniques where material is cut away from a base.
3D printers are essentially computer-controlled machines, also referred to as computerized numerical control (CNC) machines, meaning they operate with minimal human interaction once the design work is completed. They can produce many identical copies of an object consecutively, and designs can be shared online for others to replicate.
There are several distinct types of 3D printing, including Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF), powder bed, and light polymerization, each with its own strengths and weaknesses. The book focuses on FFF 3D printers because they are inexpensive, readily available, and produce parts suitable for a wide variety of functional uses. Many FFF design techniques are also transferable to other 3D printing types.
How FFF Printers Work FFF 3D printers operate by a computer translating a 3D model into commands for the printer. The printer then feeds a roll of plastic filament into a hot end, where the plastic is melted and extruded at a controlled rate onto a print bed. The extruder head and print bed move relative to each other in three dimensions to construct the 3D model layer by layer. This process is not fast; larger objects require more time to print.
The Anatomy of an FFF Print When an FFF print is being built, or observed partway through, distinct parts can be seen:
- Layers: FFF prints are constructed in layers, with each new layer resting on the one below it. Prints can have thicker layers for faster printing or thinner layers for a smoother appearance.
- Outlines: The outline of a layer is typically printed first. FFF prints often include two or more outlines to enhance the strength of the print’s exterior.
- Infill: After the outline, the rest of the layer is filled in. Areas of the print that won’t be visible from the outside usually use a loose infill to conserve material and provide support for layers above. Top layers, however, are filled completely. Most FFF prints are largely hollow.
FFF Design Considerations Designing for FFF printers requires understanding their limitations, which often stem from the fact that many FFF printer manufacturers prioritize being “good enough” over absolute precision. FFF printers are likened more to garage tools than desktop machines due to these drawbacks.
Key design considerations include:
- Overhangs and Supports: Overhangs occur when a part of the design has nothing beneath it between itself and the build platform during printing. To address this, the 3D printer can build a lattice of support material under the overhanging part. This support material, typically made of the same material as the object, must be removed after printing, which can leave traces that are difficult to clean completely, especially on complex prints.
- Supportless 3D Printing (YHT Rules): Due to the difficulties with support material, it is advisable to design for supportless 3D printing. Each layer needs something to lay down on; if a part dangles in the air, the extruded plastic will drool and ruin the print. Thoughtful design can prevent this, and three rules, illustrated by the letters Y, H, and T, can help:
- Y – Gentle Overhangs: A gradual outward slope is generally safe. For example, a capital letter Y can print successfully standing up because the arms branch out gradually. A 45-degree overhang is generally considered safe, though some printers can handle angles as steep as 80 degrees.
- H – Bridging: If a part has no support directly below it but is supported on either side, like a capital letter H standing up, the printer may be able to “bridge” the gap. Bridges are printed like any other layer (outline first, then infill). Caution is advised, and bridges should be kept simple to ensure success.
- T – Orientation: For designs like a capital letter T standing up, the top arms would have too much overhang. The simple solution is to orient the object differently for printing, such as laying it down on its back. Not every print needs to be printed in its intended use orientation.
- Wall Thickness: There is a minimum size for things a 3D printer can create, determined by the nozzle diameter (commonly 0.4 mm). Most printers require a wall to be at least two nozzle widths thick (e.g., 0.8 mm for a 0.4 mm nozzle). However, due to how slicers calculate outlines, a 0.8 mm wall isn’t just a minimum; it’s a target that can still lead to air pockets if not precisely hit. To be safe and ensure solid prints, it is best to make walls a minimum of 2 mm thick, allowing for one or two outlines and some infill, regardless of nozzle diameter. This thickness also allows for considerable detail.
- Holes in Models: Models for 3D printing must be “closed,” meaning they cannot have holes. Mathematically, these holes are non-manifold errors, which confuse the slicer regarding the model’s inside and outside. A 2D wall by itself, without thickness or a defined inside/outside, is not printable as it doesn’t describe a real-life shape.
In essence, while 3D printing is a powerful tool for creating detailed objects with minimal human interaction post-design, effective design necessitates understanding the specific processes involved, particularly for FFF printing. It’s about designing with the medium’s capabilities and constraints in mind.
Blender for 3D Printing: A Comprehensive Guide
Blender is a powerful and comprehensive 3D modeling software that is a popular choice for creating models for 3D printing. It allows users to create 3D models with precision, essential for making objects that need to match real-world measurements, such as a lid for a can or a replacement for a broken part.
Why Blender is Chosen and Its Features Blender is the software of choice for designing 3D models in the provided sources due to several key advantages:
- Cost-Effective: Blender is free of charge, making it accessible to all users without any mandatory payment, though donations are an option.
- Comprehensive Functionality: Designed for 3D animations, Blender is a robust suite of modeling tools that covers everything from a blank canvas to a finished animation. Learning Blender can eliminate the need to learn other 3D modeling software due to its vast capabilities, including sculpting and skeletal manipulation, though these are not covered in detail in the basic introduction.
- Constant Development: Blender is in constant development, with developers regularly responding to user needs, meaning new features may be added over time.
Learning Curve and Configuration Despite its advantages, Blender has a well-earned reputation for a difficult learning curve due to its default user interface being less intuitive than other software. However, it is highly configurable, and a few simple settings can significantly ease the learning process for beginners. The book aims to help users overcome this by providing basic knowledge and reference material.
Getting Started with Blender To begin using Blender, users must first download and install it from http://www.blender.org. Once installed, users are presented with a default view composed of various configurable windows called panels.
Key Panels in the Default View:
- Info panel: Located at the top, it contains menu options like File, Window, and Help, along with scene and renderer settings.
- Outliner: In the upper-right, it lists all objects in the scene.
- Properties panel: In the lower-right, it has tabs related to the selected object, with available properties changing based on the selection.
- Timeline: Though largely unnecessary for 3D printing design, it’s part of the default view and can be removed or ignored.
- 3D View: Occupying most of the screen, this is where most of the work happens and provides visual feedback. It includes its own Menu, Tool Shelf (left-hand side), and Properties panel (right-hand side, hidden by default).
The 3D cursor, a red-and-white circle in the 3D View, indicates where new objects will be created. It can be moved by right-clicking or quickly reset to the center of the 3D space by navigating to View | Align View | Center Cursor and View All or pressing Shift + C.
Recommended Settings:
- Scroll-wheel mouse and number pad: Change the “Select With” option to Left mouse button for a more intuitive experience. The middle mouse button is used for view manipulation.
- Laptop with touchpad (no middle click) and no number pad: Select “Emulate 3 Button Mouse” and “Emulate Numpad.” This allows Ctrl + right mouse button for middle mouse functions and number keys (top row) to emulate the Numpad.
Basic Operations and Design in Blender Blender users are encouraged to use keyboard shortcuts for efficiency, often with one hand on the mouse and the other on the keyboard.
- Object Creation: Users can clear the default scene (A + A + X) and add various basic shapes (Mesh | Monkey, Cylinder, Cube) that serve as starting points for designs.
- Navigating the View: Essential for working in 3D, users can rotate (middle mouse button, Numpad 2/8/4/6), pan (Shift + middle mouse button, Ctrl + Numpad 4/6/8/2), and zoom (scroll wheel, Ctrl + middle mouse button, Numpad +/-). Views can be orthographic (everything same size, good for precision) or perspective (realistic, closer objects look bigger) and toggled with Numpad 5. Users can also switch between Wireframe and Solid views (Z) to see through objects, which is powerful for selection and modeling.
- Transforming Objects: Objects can be changed in size, direction, or location without altering their shape using Grab/Move (G), Rotate (R), and Scale (S) commands.
- Controlling Transformations:
- Controlling the view: Operations depend on the view, so adjusting the view (e.g., to Top Ortho) can control movement to specific planes.
- Axis locking: Transformations can be locked along the X, Y, or Z axes by pressing X, Y, or Z keys during the operation. Ctrl + X/Y/Z locks to all but the chosen axis, and holding the middle mouse button can also select an axis.
- Precise transformation: Numerical values can be typed during transformations for exact control (e.g., G then Z then 2 to move 2 units up).
- Origin manipulation: Objects have an “origin” (a dot) around which transformations occur. It can be reset (Ctrl + Shift + Alt + C or in Tool Shelf) to the object’s geometry, the 3D cursor, or center of mass.
- Duplicating and Selecting Objects: Objects can be duplicated (Shift + D) and multiple objects can be selected using Shift + click (Shift select), B (Border select, drawing a box), or C (Circle select, drawing a circle).
- Edit Mode: Tab allows users to enter Edit mode, where the shape of a single object can be manipulated. Objects are broken down into vertices (points), lines (edges), and faces (surfaces formed by connected lines). Users can switch between selecting these parts using Ctrl + Tab or buttons in the 3D View menu.
- Incremental Saving: It’s crucial to save work frequently (Ctrl + S) and use incremental saving (Ctrl + Shift + S) by adding numbers to filenames. This creates a history of work, allowing easy reversion to previous versions in case of mistakes.
Blender to Real-Life and Exporting Blender units do not inherently correspond to real-life measurements by default. However, when exporting for 3D printing, slicing software typically interprets Blender units as millimeters. This means a default object is 2mm across. To prepare models for 3D printing, they must be “closed” (manifold) without holes, as a 2D wall without thickness cannot exist in real life or be printed. For 3D printing, models need to be exported to a STereoLithography (STL) file (File | Export | Stl (.stl)), which contains only the final shape of the object. Multiple selected objects will be exported in their relative orientation, so it’s important they don’t overlap or are printable as oriented.
Practical Applications and Advanced Considerations Blender is used in projects like designing an SD card holder ring, which requires precise measurements of a finger and an SD card. Techniques include:
- Modeling with precision: Using accurate measurements for cylinder radius and depth.
- Placing objects on the XY plane: Moving objects so their bottom sits on the imaginary floor for a consistent reference point.
- Boolean Modifiers: These are used to combine or subtract shapes (e.g., subtracting the finger shape from the ring to create the hole). Boolean operations can be left unapplied for flexibility, allowing for resizing and customization later, which is particularly useful for adjustable designs like a ring. However, leaving too many modifiers unapplied on complex objects can lead to performance issues or crashes.
- Organizing by Layers: Projects with multiple parts can be organized using Blender’s layer system, allowing parts to be viewed and edited separately or together.
- Importing Reference Images: The grid paper trace method allows scanning or photographing a traced object on grid paper and importing it into Blender as a background image to scale and model complex shapes.
Blender is a powerful tool for converting virtual ideas into real-world objects, even if it requires a commitment to learn its intricacies.
Precise 3D Modeling: Measurement Techniques for Real-World Objects
Accurate measurements are often very important when planning and modeling a 3D object, especially when these objects need to match real-world items, such as a lid for a can or a replacement for a broken part. This is because 3D printing makes virtual things real, and sometimes, those things need to precisely align with an existing physical object.
Here are the measurement techniques discussed in the sources:
- Measuring with a Ruler
- Description: Rulers are common household items that can provide relatively accurate measurements.
- Application: They work well for objects that are flat on at least two adjacent sides. To use, simply lay the object on its flat edge, align one side with the 0 mark, and read the measurement from the other side.
- Limitations: Rulers are not the best method for measuring complex shapes.
- Measuring with Calipers
- Description: Calipers are a “must-have” tool for anyone who models for 3D printing, as they measure distance with a high degree of precision.
- Functionality: They can measure in three ways: the outside diameter of an object with the outside jaws, the internal diameter with the inside jaws, and the depth with the depth probe at the far end.
- Types:
- Manual or Vernier Calipers:
- Description: These operate purely mechanically and are generally less expensive. They achieve accuracy through a clever trick in their reading mechanism.
- Usage: Open the jaws, tighten them over the object, and then read the measurement. The leftmost tick indicates the main measurement (e.g., between 4.5 and 4.6 cm), and then count the tick marks on the outside until one perfectly aligns with an inside tick to find the hundredths part (e.g., 4.55 cm or 45.5 mm).
- Advantages: They never need calibration and don’t require batteries, so they will always work. They are also cheaper.
- Disadvantages: They require additional effort to read properly.
- Digital Calipers:
- Description: These are the easiest measuring tool to use.
- Usage: Simply turn it on, “tare” or “zero” the reading while closed, then open the jaws, place the object between them, clamp it down, and take the reading. Some models can even transfer measurements directly to a computer.
- Advantages: They are fast and accurate without much effort.
- Disadvantages: They are more expensive and rely on batteries. They can also go off calibration, which reduces their accuracy.
- Grid Paper Trace Method
- Concept: This trick involves tracing an object with a complex shape onto a piece of grid paper. The traced image can then be scanned or photographed and imported into modeling software (like Blender) to recreate the shape using the grid as a scale reference.
- Suitable Objects: Ideal objects have a complex and difficult-to-measure shape but at least one flat side, allowing them to be laid flat on paper. If an object doesn’t have a flat side, one can be created.
- Object Preparation:
- Flattening: If necessary, use a sharp blade to cut off any nubs and fine-grit sandpaper on a flat surface to ensure the surface is perfectly flat. Note the location of removed parts if they need to be re-modeled.
- Tracing/Stamping: Lay the object on centimeter grid paper, align it with the grids, and trace the object. Traces are generally slightly larger than the actual object. Alternatively, an ink pad can be used to make a more accurate shape transfer, using the flat side of the object like a stamp. Stamping on a soft surface like a towel can improve coverage.
- Digitizing: Scan the traced or stamped part, or use a digital camera, to get the image into the computer. It’s crucial to keep the grid lined up and even in the image to avoid the need for extensive editing in the modeling software.
- Importing into Blender:
- Start Blender, clear the scene, and save the project.
- Change the view to Top Ortho (Numpad 7, Numpad 5).
- In the Properties panel (N), enable and expand the “Background Images” section, then click “Add Image” and “Open” to import the scanned image.
- Adjust the settings for the background image (X, Y, Size, Rotation) in the Properties panel until the grid on the paper lines up with the centimeter grid in the 3D View. Blender units default to millimeters, so zoom out until the major grid lines appear, then further until millimeter lines disappear.
- For symmetrical objects, the X value can be adjusted to align the object’s center line with the world origin using the Mirror modifier.
- Increasing Reference Pictures: Multiple reference images can be combined in Blender’s background image settings by limiting them to specific views (top, bottom, front, etc.), which increases the model’s accuracy. Other images can serve as guidelines if accurate tracing from certain sides is difficult.
- 3D Scanning
- Concept: This method captures complex shapes quickly and accurately, reproducing them on the computer, but at a considerably higher cost.
- Types and Limitations:
- Photogrammetry: Builds a model from photographic references. It captures shape details well but does not capture scale accurately.
- Structured Light Scanning: Can capture scale quite well if calibrated, but the geometry might lack fine details depending on factors. Scanners may cover this up with textures, but textures do not print on FFF printers.
- General Issues: Some 3D scanners only scan small objects, while others only large objects without fine detail. Many require considerable user effort to achieve results. Affordable 3D scanners with high detail and measuring accuracy are often prohibitive for home users.
- Outlook: Demand for accurate and cheap 3D scanners has risen, and new options are constantly being developed. Users should be cautious, as many promises are made but not always delivered, but a reliable, accurate, and affordable 3D scanner is likely to emerge one day.
Ultimately, having more measurement options available helps in being a better designer.
3D Printed SD Card Ring Holder Design with Blender
The SD Card Holder is presented as a practical 3D printing project designed to illustrate how to model objects based on real-world measurements and ensure they match existing physical items.
Here’s a comprehensive discussion of the SD Card Holder project:
- Purpose and Concept
- Many 3D printers can print directly from an SD card, which creates a need for easy transportation of these cards.
- A ring that can hold an SD card is proposed as a solution, serving as an excellent example of modeling based on physical objects.
- The project requires precise measurements of both a human finger (for the ring) and a standard SD card. It also tackles challenges like plastic shrinkage and printer inaccuracies to ensure a good fit.
- Taking Measurements
- Before starting in Blender, careful measurements of the ring finger and an SD card are essential.
- A digital caliper is an excellent tool for taking these measurements accurately.
- Finger Measurement:
- An example measurement for a middle finger is 19.3 mm at its widest point using a digital caliper.
- Alternatively, a piece of paper can be wrapped around the finger, marked for overlap, and measured with a ruler to find the circumference. A table is provided to convert circumference to standard ring sizes and diameters (e.g., 49.3 mm circumference corresponds to 15.7 mm diameter for US size 5).
- SD Card Measurement:
- Standard SD cards are consistently sized at 2.2 mm x 24 mm x 32 mm.
- Modeling the Ring in Blender
- The project begins by setting up a new Blender scene, clearing default elements, and saving the project.
- Modeling the Finger (as a guide):
- A Cylinder is added.
- Its Vertices are set to 64 for smoothness, Radius to half the measured finger diameter (e.g., 19.3/2 = 9.650 mm), and Depth to 10 mm. Blender can process simple equations directly in these input boxes.
- This cylinder is renamed “Finger” in the Object tab of the Properties panel.
- Creating the Ring:
- Another Cylinder is added, inheriting the previous settings.
- Its Radius is increased by 2 mm (e.g., +2 to the finger’s radius) and its Depth is changed to 4 mm.
- This cylinder is renamed “Ring”.
- Placing the Ring on the Floor (XY Plane):
- Objects in Blender are often centered at the origin by default, meaning part of them is below the XY plane (the logical floor).
- To place the ring on the XY plane, it is selected, the Grab (G) operation is initiated, locked to the Z-axis (Z), and moved up by half its depth (e.g., 2 units for a 4mm deep ring).
- Finishing the Ring:
- A Boolean modifier is added to the “Ring” object, with the operation set to Difference and the object set to “Finger”.
- The “Finger” object is then hidden (H) or by clicking the eye icon in the Outliner to reveal the Boolean effect.
- In Edit mode (Tab), a loop cut (Ctrl + R) is made around the middle of the cylinder and scaled outwards slightly (not more than 1mm larger than the top/bottom disks), primarily for aesthetics.
- Exiting Edit mode brings the hole back. The project is periodically saved (Ctrl + S).
- Making a Test Print
- Testing is crucial when designing things to fit real-life objects, as 3D printers can print items smaller or larger than the file dictates due to plastic shrinkage (e.g., ABS), incorrect print settings, or polygon-created internal rings being slightly small.
- The ring model is exported as an STereoLithography (STL) file (e.g., Test Ring.stl) and printed.
- If the test ring doesn’t fit, it’s resized back in Blender. This involves unhiding the “Finger” object (Alt + H), selecting both “Finger” and “Ring,” and adjusting their X and Y dimensions in the Properties panel (N) by adding 1mm (or more/less as needed). The Z dimension is left unchanged. This process is iterated until a comfortable fit is achieved.
- Adding an SD Card Holder
- Organizing by Layers: Blender allows organizing project parts into layers, which can be viewed and edited separately. Layers are accessed via icons at the bottom of the 3D View or by number keys (1-0 for top row, Alt + number for bottom row). The project moves to the second layer for the SD card holder.
- Creating a Virtual SD Card:
- A Cube is added.
- In Edit mode (Tab), all its vertices are selected (A) and moved (G) 1 unit along the Z-axis (Z + 1). This trick keeps the cube’s origin at the bottom face, allowing scaling to occur only above the XY plane.
- The cube’s dimensions are then precisely set to X: 2.2 mm, Y: 24 mm, and Z: 32 mm to match a standard SD card.
- This object is renamed “SD Card”.
- Creating the SD Holder:
- A new Cube is added and prepared similarly (moved up 1 unit in Z in Edit mode).
- Its dimensions are set to X: 6.2 mm, Y: 28 mm, and Z: 12 mm, making it 2mm thicker than the SD card on all sides, short enough for easy removal, yet tall enough for security.
- This object is renamed “SD Holder”.
- A Boolean modifier is added to the “SDHolder” object to Difference the “SDCard” from it. The “SD Card” object is then hidden (H).
- To prevent the SD card from falling out, the “SD Card” object is unhidden (Alt + H), selected, and moved (G) 2 units along the Z-axis (Z), then hidden again. This adjusts the depth of the Boolean cut.
- Putting it all Together
- Both the “SDHolder” and “Ring” layers are made visible simultaneously by holding Shift while clicking their layer icons.
- The “SDHolder” and “SDCard” objects are selected together (Shift-click) and moved (G) along the X-axis (X) until the “SDHolder” intersects with the “Ring” object, ensuring a good connection without interfering with the finger hole. This joint movement is crucial because the Boolean modifier for the hole is not yet applied, so the hole moves with the “SDCard” object.
- The “SDCard” object is hidden again.
- A Boolean modifier is added to the “SDHolder” object to Union it with the “Ring” object.
- To correct a blemish inside the hole (where the ring protrudes), the order of the Boolean modifiers on the “SDHolder” object is adjusted in the Outliner view, moving the “Difference” operation for the “SDCard” below the “Union” operation for the “Ring”. This ensures the ring is attached first, and then the SD card hole is cut from the combined shape.
- Outcome and Extra Credit
- The final “SDHolder” object is flat on the bottom, ready for 3D printing.
- The project demonstrates that Blender, despite claims of lacking CAD-like precision, is capable of extremely precise modeling with careful planning and clever manipulation.
- Leaving modifiers unapplied during design offers high flexibility, making it easy to customize objects like resizing the ring or adjusting the SD holder’s position.
- Extra credit suggests experimenting with unapplied modifiers and complex objects (e.g., Subsurf, Boolean) to observe performance slowdowns and potential crashes.
- The knowledge gained allows for creative extensions, such as designing other SD card holders like keychains or clips, or integrating SD card holders into existing models.
Blender: Object Transformation Fundamentals
In Blender, object transformation refers to changing the size, direction, or location of an object without altering its inherent shape.
There are three fundamental transformation commands frequently used in Blender:
- Grab and Move: Used to change the object’s position.
- Scale: Used to change the object’s size.
- Rotate: Used to change the object’s orientation.
To perform a transformation, first, ensure the object is selected. Then, you can initiate the desired transformation by pressing its corresponding keyboard shortcut (G for Grab/Move, S for Scale, R for Rotate) or by selecting it from the 3D View menu under Object | Transform. Once the transformation is initiated, you move the mouse or use arrow keys to perform the transformation. To finalize the operation, press Enter or the select mouse button. To cancel, press the not-select mouse button or the Esc key. Transformations can also be undone after completion by pressing Ctrl + Z.
Controlling Transformations: By default, transformations in Blender operate on a 2D plane relative to the view, which can make their outcome hard to predict. For example, moving something in a random view might include unexpected upward or downward motion that isn’t clear until the view is changed. Therefore, controlling transformations is crucial.
There are two primary methods for controlling transformation operations:
- Controlling the View:
- Transformations depend on the current view. By carefully selecting your view, you can control the action.
- For instance, if you move an object in the Top Ortho view (Numpad 7), it will stay on the grid plane because only forward, backward, and side-to-side motion is possible from that perspective.
- Similarly, moving objects in side views limits movement to forward/back and up/down, while front/back views limit it to side-to-side and up/down.
- Rotation also depends on the view; rotating from the top view will make it spin around its middle, from the side it will flip, and from the front it will roll.
- It is always recommended to adjust your view frequently to ensure transformations are happening as expected.
- Axis Locking:
- Blender allows you to lock transformations to specific axes (X, Y, or Z), which represent the three unique dimensions. X is side-to-side, Y is back-and-forth, and Z is up and down. These are typically shown with red (X), green (Y), and blue (Z) indicators in the 3D View.
- While performing a transformation, you can:
- Press X, Y, or Z on your keyboard to lock the transformation to that specific axis.
- Press Ctrl + X, Ctrl + Y, or Ctrl + Z to lock the transformation to all but the chosen axis.
- Hold the middle mouse button and move the mouse to interactively choose an axis to lock to.
- Axis locking offers additional capabilities, especially for scaling, allowing you to scale an object along only one chosen axis, which is a powerful tool for adjusting object shapes.
Precise Transformation: During transformation operations, you can achieve precise control by typing in a numerical value related to the operation. This value can also be edited afterwards in the operation properties found in the Tool Shelf (left side of the 3D View).
- When moving, typed commands indicate the number of units an object will move along the selected axis (e.g., typing 2 after locking to Z moves it two units up, -2 moves it two units down).
- When scaling, typed commands specify the scale factor (e.g., 1 means no change, 2 means twice as big, 0.5 means half size).
- When rotating, typed commands specify clockwise degrees (e.g., 180 turns it around backwards).
- Typed commands can include negative numbers and decimals, and can be edited with the Backspace key. The 3D View menu will display a description of the transformation and the typed units while you are performing the operation.
Origin Manipulation: Objects in Blender have an origin, depicted as a dot, which initially resides in the object’s middle. Individual object transformation commands are executed relative to this origin. The origin can accidentally move during editing, leading to unexpected results when rotating or scaling the object. Conversely, moving the origin intentionally can help control the effect of modifiers.
The origin can be reset or repositioned using specific commands:
- Geometry to Origin: Moves the object so its middle aligns with where the origin was located.
- Origin to geometry: Moves the origin to the middle of the object. This is the most commonly chosen option.
- Origin to 3D Cursor: Relocates the origin to the current position of the 3D cursor.
- Origin to Center of Mass: Calculates the object’s center of mass and moves the origin there. These controls can be found in the 3D View menu under Object | Transform or in the Tool Shelf under the Set Origin dropdown, or by pressing Ctrl + Shift + Alt + C.
By Amjad Izhar
Contact: amjad.izhar@gmail.com
https://amjadizhar.blog
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